a present to me, from me! - a sewaholic renfrew christmas sweater

Who can resist purple reindeer sweaterknit?!?! I think it was from Joann's last winter, and I loved it then, but not the price, especially since I was so new to sewing and my success rate was still not too high. Then this summer it moved over to the clearance rack, which then was 50% off the clearance price, and it was finally mine!  I knew right then that a Sewaholic Renfrew Christmas sweater was in my future!

And here it is! I enjoyed Tasia's pattern. She has you construct it a little differently than most top patters, and it comes together really well. I only made a few alterations right at the end. I took the bottom band in 3-4 inches. Her patterns are designed for pear-shaped ladies, which I am definitely not! I also had to shorten the sleeves quite a bit (and could have more, but didn't want to cut off any reindeers!), and took in the cuff so the sleeves would stay up when scrunched to 3/4 length. The smaller band and cuffs gave it more of a sweatshirt shape and I totally dig that for this sweater, but if I were to make this pattern as a regular jersey t-shirt I would grade down the hips and arms to get a slimmer fit.

I did a fairly good job matching up my stripes, only a few spot got askew. The cuffs were supposed to have a band of purple right after the stitching, but that got lost during construction, but I made sure to line up the facing-together reindeer to the center of the bodice front and back. 

 

And check out that awesome neck binding! I carefully cut my strip from the fabric to make the patterned band, lined it up nearly perfect, and attached and top-stitched with a nice, even zig-zag. Next time I will cut the band just a wee bit smaller as it gapes ever so slightly, most of which I was able to combat with a good steaming. I constructed everything on my regular sewing machine with a slight zig-zag stitch, then finished the seams on the serger. I'm doing most of my sewing this way right now, not quite yet trusting my mastery of the machine to do my seams right on the serger.

And now "'tis the season" to be busy, so there may not be a post again until after the 25th. In the meantime, Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas to all! Whatever you celebrations may be, I hope they are merry and bright!

a quick knit

No, no, you haven't stumbled onto a different blog! I occasionally knit, and not terribly well. The most complicated thing I ever knitted was a mitten. That's right, ONE mitten. But knit 1, purl 1, yeah I can do that. Especially when using a quick-to-knit chunky yarn!

As you might remember, I'm really into mustard yellow for fall. I love how the introduction of just one new piece in a new color can transform all your basic outfits into a whole different season. Recently I've  pinned a lot of looks with cozy infinity scarves. They are kinda trendy right now, but also kinda ingenious as you don't have to keep fiddling with you scarf to keep it wrapped up right.  I picked up one ball (skein? package? what's the technical word for it?) of chunky Lion Brand Yarn (I've used them before and are always pleased with my results) and set of large size 13 knitting needles at the Joann Fabrics. I think the all together the cost was under $6. Not a bad investment to try out a trend.

I did a rib knit (k1 p1), 12 stitches wide. After I got going on it I realizes that 1.) it was too wide and would be way too chunky to wrap around the neck twice and 2.) I wouldn't have enough yarn to make it long enough to wrap around twice anyway. So I knitted until it was long enough to wrap loosely once around, then finished the edges and whip-stitched the ends together to close the loop. I finished the whole thing in one lazy Sunday morning watching t.v. on the couch with Mr. Sew Rachel, and eating way too many popovers (Mmm). That's my kind of knitting project. 

So it's really more of a cowl, but a slouchy cowl that gives the illusion of an infinity scarf. Next time I'll only do 8 stitches wide so I can actually wrap it around a couple times, and there will so be a next time! I already love this thing and was a red one and a black one, AND my sister in Philadelphia totally crocheted me a super nice grey one! It's in the mail as we speak and I promise to show you all when it gets here!

way too long!

I'm so sorry for the long pause between posts! I've noticed a couple other bloggers that I follow also have had longer-than-usually breaks between posts this summer. Summers are busy! Especially for this gal, as I've picked up another day at work for the next month+/- while a coworker had needed to take leave unexpectedly, just moved my art studio (yet to be unpacked), and WE ARE BUYING A HOUSE (but our lease is up the end of this month and we don't close on the house until August 15th so are moving TWICE in the next 49 days with our three critters and living in my grandparent's basement in between...), and I'm in my brother's wedding at the end of August which I still need to make my bridesmaid dress. WOO!

BUT on that note I do have something cool to show you! I just finished the dress for one if the other bridesmaids! This one came together very easily, in about two afternoons. I used McCalls 6353, which is now out of print but still available online.

It's an infini-dress, except unlike some of the tutorials I've seen online, this version includes a tube-top bodice underneath the wrapped pieces for extra coverage. I was not able to measure the other bridesmaid myself, and the measurements she sent me seemed a little off, so this pattern was a great choice made from knit fabric, with no fussy fittings, and lots of options to wear it. I made my version from an aqua modal jersey (which I think is like a rayon and very soft and pretty!) that I bought on eBay.

Not too bad! A tip for someone making this pattern, or a similar dress: because the wrapped ties are not hemmed, make sure to cut a very straight, clean line, like with a rotary cutter. Next up will hopefully be MY bridesmaid's dress, then a swimsuit that I've started a mock-up of, inspired by the Bombshell Swimsuit by Closet Case Files. Until later!

me-made-may '13 - may 14th -18th

Here is my MMM '13 update! I'm doing really well, and finding it easier than I expected to reach for my me-made items when putting an outfit together. It's totally reaffirming my decision to dedicate so much of my free time to making my own garments.

Everyone at work loved my new Butterick 5885 on May 14th! Still too early to go sleeveless, and I was having a hard time figuring out what color cardigan would go with this graphic print. I decided on fuchsia... because fuchsia really goes with everything this season!

I wore my new maxi skirt on May 15th AND 16th. This is SO going to be a summer staple! I've already planned another maxi skirt fro my next project. Given how many times I've work this since just a week ago when I made it, you will be relieved to know that it launders beautifully. :)

On May 17th I wore the purple lace fold-over waistband skirt out shopping with my sister and mom. I dressed it casual with gold flip flops, a white t-shirt and a slouchy, grey sweater. So cute! 

Until later! 

me-made-may '13 - may 9th - 13th & a new maxi-skirt

Well first off, let me show you what I'm wearing right now:

Ahh, the beauty that is an iPhone-bedroom-mirror-self-portrait. Here is my new jersey, fold-over waistband maxi-skirt. I LOVE it! I put it on as soon as I got home from work. I used a soft, grey, rib-knit I got on a $1.95/yard sale at Fabirc.com, and the included skirt pattern by Meg McElwee from my Sewing with Knits class on Craftsy.com. The pattern is for a knee-length or mini skirt, so I taped some newsprint to the bottom of the skirt pattern and continued the line to a maxi-length. I did find that with this rib knit I could not get the fit tight enough for the skirt to stay up, even after taking 5 or 6 inches off the waistband from the original pattern. I'm learning that different knit fabrics using the same pattern will yield very different fits. I ended up sewing an additional line of stitching in the seam allowance to create a casing for some 1/4 inch elastic. Problem solved! I will SOOO be making more of these for summer, or maybe skipping the fold-over waistband all together and making strait-up elastic waist maxi-skirts.

Now on to my Me-Made-May update, and I'm exceeding my pledge of a handmade garment two day per week!

On Thursday, May 9th I wore my teal denim Simplicity 2258 to work.

Friday, May 10th, I both made the above maxi-skirt AND wore it out with friends that evening! Double win!

And on Sunday May 12th I wore the these-are-not-jegging yoga jeans when lounging and working around that house, and slipped on my previously mentioned spring ruffle skirt when I went out. 'Cause my yoga jeans look good, but not quite where-outside-of the-house-without-looking-scrubby good.

I'm already planning on wearing my new Butterick 5885 tomorrow for my usual Me-Made-Tuesday... I am so rocking MMM '13!

butterick 5885 finished!

I finally finished the Butterick 5885 by Maggy London that I started over a month ago! I actually had the construction finished a long time ago but have been putting off the hem. Why? I don't like hemming, for one thing. It's tedious and fussy and plain old not as much fun as the making-something-out-of-just-fabric part (a.k.a. construction). If you don't get the hem just right the whole garment, and all the work up until then, will look awful. Most of the UFOs in my sewing room are because I just don't feel like hemming them. This dress with a full circle skirt has A LOT of hem, and a fussy curved hem at that!

Second, it's so hard to mark a hem by yourself! Most of the time I can wing it when I have a straight hem, or one that hangs evenly right from the pattern. But this big circle skirt in a stretchy knit made for an all wonky hem. I tried the hem attachments on my dress form, but once I was marked all the way around, my marks were 2 inches shorter then when they started... that's not going to work. I tried to teach Mr. Sew Rachel how to do it, but a quarter of the way through he throws up his hands and says "I can't do this! I'm going to ruin your pretty dress!" Umm, I was going check it in the mirror before I cut anything.... oh well. So I took it to my Gramma's.  Of course she had no problem helping me out, and I now I know to go to her first.

Once the dress was marked, it actually finished up quite nicely! This fabric has been great to work with; even easing the curve of the hem was no trouble at all! And for the 56 inches of elastic that pattern was telling me to put in the waist.... I just left it out and it looks just fine. In fact, the fit is fabulous. I would for sure make this pattern again!

A v-neck with crisscrossed and ruched detail. As usual  I had to take in in the shoulders a couple inches, as well as take in the sides. I always cut a 14 (which is what a measure at) and always take it in! I need to just cut a 12 for all patterns from now on...

The back is constructed from two one-shoulder pieces that cross and then both attach at the waist for a nice v-detail. I love how the graphic print will camouflage any little bumps in both in the dress construction and in the wearer! 

me-made-may '13 - may 1st-7th

How are you doing on your Me-Made-May pledge? I pledged to wear a handmade garment twice a week, and so far so good. On May 1st I wore a made-by-me spring ruffle skirt (yet to be blogged on... but I will!) with a white t-shirt and fuchsia cardigan to work, and on the 3rd I wore my purple lace fold-over waistband skirt..

 

And I'm already on track for this week, as I mad a garment this morning AND wore it in the afternoon/evening! But more on that later...

another present?

Yup! I made another present! Who knew I was that generous? This time it's for my brother's fiance. (They are getting married this August and this girl is a bridesmaid, so keep posted for a killer handmade bridesmaid dress!)

We were out at the Mall and she spotted this awesome teal sleeveless tank top at Macy's. It looked great on her, and had a cute just-the-right-size bow on the neckline, but she was not going to pay nearly $40 for a tank top! So....

 

 

I used Simplicity 2116, a simple tank pattern. It was really easy, just two pattern pieces. The instructions were to sew up the side and shoulder seams, then turn in and hem the neck and shoulders. But wanted to take it up another level. I bought a teal polka-dot knit for the front panel and the bow (from the clearance rack, of course), and a fine off-white knit for the back and for lining. I chose to use lining so it can be worn to work without worry of undergarments showing, and just to elevate it and make it more than just a tank...  

 

Because if the lining, I chose to construct it a little differently. After sewing the shoulder seams on both the lining and the outer layer, I sewed the necklines right sides together and turned to get a clean, top-stitch free neckline to highlight my bow! I hope she likes it!

what's rachel sewing today?

I've decided that winter is officially over her in Maine. For those who know, just because the calendar says "spring" doesn't mean mother nature is going to listen. We may still have snow on the ground here and there, but I'm convinced that no more is coming out of the sky. That means spring sewing!

I had brought home a couple of really cool black and white prints from the clearance rack, and then read that it's a big trend for spring. Huzzah! I'm ahead of the trend! 

So today I picked up Butterick 5885 by Maggy London and knew it would be perfect for this knit print! (ps. Buttericks are on sale at there website if you want a copy.) I did switch out the skirt for a simple circle skirt from another pattern. I've got the front together with little issues. The only weird part is it seems to be telling me to feed elastic into the waist, that measures TWO TIMES my waist measurement  That does not make since to me, and I couldn't find any answers on the webs. I may just leave the elastic out for now until the dress is finished and insert it later if I need to, or maybe half if. If anyone has done this pattern advice is welcome! Until later!

a present for my sister!

I kept telling my sister that I'll make her some cool things... after I finish making all the cool things I want to make for me. (Do you hear a little Selfish Seamstress in me?) Well, something tells me I'm NEVER going to get to the end of that every growing list. So I found this great silky print on the clearance rack at Joann Fabrics and knew it would be perfect for her. If course, there was only 1 yard left, so we decided to make a loose top to wear with skinny jeans, using McCalls 6359.

I bought some black crinkly jersey for contrast, and while I had JUST enough of my silky print to block it like it's shown on the envelope I decided to change it up a little.

What do you think? Still have the cool V detail on the back, but all print in the front! I used french seams whenever possible. It took a little over 3 hours from start to finish. This was only my second time using bias tape for the neck and arm openings and it took a lot of manipulation with the iron to get it to lay ok, but all that consider it came out pretty well!

McCalls 6614 and other projects

Sorry for the long delay! I actually finished my purple lace McCalls 6614 a while ago, but have been too busy to take pictures and post between visiting family and friends over Easter and PAX East. So here it is! Sorry for the wrinkles. I've worn and washed it a couple times and was too lazy to iron it this morning.

 

I also found some fabulous striped jersey on sale at Fabric.com. I used a free pattern from the iCandy Handmade blog to make a fabulous cardigan.

 

Look what a good job I did matching the stripes on the seams and the bands! I started it on my mothers serger (until I somehow broke the tension), then finished the front band an cuffs on my own regular machine, including the purple top-stitching. I wear a cardigan almost every day to work, so I was super pleased to find this pattern! I wore it to work and got tons of compliments, even before they knew that I made it!

Next post: McCalls 6359! I made it for my sister, so I'll be up on the blog as soon as she gets it!

what's rachel sewing today?

Leftover purple jersey, causual pattern, sexy lace side panels... you'll just have to wait and see how it all comes together!

meeting my sewing goals: i'm going to put a fold-over waistband on everything

I mean, really? Is there anything more comfortable? My most worn RTW skirt is a black jersey skirt from Old Navy with a fold-over waistband (actually, there have been at least 3, because I wear them to threads and have to replace them). Also, they go with everything, and you can dress them up or down depending on the top.

One of the patterns included with my Sewing With Knits Crafty.com class is for just that kind of knit skirt; simple, a-line, and to-the-knee. You may remember that making some knit garmets was one of my late-winter/early-sping sewing goals. For the first skirt I used the same nice, heavy, jeggings fabric I used for my yoga-jeans, pattern also from Sewing With Knits. It made a great, comfy, casual skirt with that denim look to go with everything.

 The other skirt was made with this beautiful purple lace I picked up at Winmil Fabrics in Boston. My original plan per my pervious blog post was to use New Look 6053, that I'd used previously on my slim, black and white lace print skirt (I know, I know! A lot of lace! It's ok, it's totally on trend!). This particular lace had a good stretch to it, and since I'm enamored with making knit garments I thought this would be a nice little added challenge. AND, I had a similar purple jersey in my stash. AND, then I didn't have to put in a zipper. AND, did I mention that a fold-over jersey waistband makes for a WAY more comfortable skirt and so I want to put them on everything? I'm glad I made that choice, because I'm very, very pleased with the results.

 

 I made the lace overlay a little longer than the jersey, boot-length, so the the light will peek through the lace at the bottom of the skirt.

For the lace overlay, I combined the techniques for sewing with stretch and sewing with lace (which I had to look up on youtube because I'd not worked with lace before!). I did a french seam with a nice long stitch that had just a little bit of zig-zag.

I layered the lace on top of the jersey before I stitched up the waistband. It came out perfect, as if it were the same piece of fabric!

Before I sign off I need to put in an extra shout-out to Meg McElwee, the instructor for Sewing With Knits and designer or these awesome patterns, so go check her out. And lastly, didn't those last batch of photos come out great? More to post soon!

these are not jeggings - and i don't like my black pants

I was so excited about my black pants. I had made a test garment and figured out how to add a little more room for my bum. The pockets looked perfect. I got the zipper fly in without too much problem. They fit great.... until the knee. Somehow it looked like my knee had a diaper! I took the whole leg in a little on the side, since it was also a smidge loose all over. Still looked wrong, and because McCalls 6707 has this side panel going up the outside of the leg, I couldn't just pin and sew until I got the fit I wanted. I tried taking in from the inseam instead, still doesn't look right. I can't seem to find the right combination of slim and straight that looks good! I think I'm going to have to take apart the seams of the side panel to take some in on the back and front pieces. But I'm frustrated.... so I just stuck them into my fabric drawer instead.

I am having better luck with with projects inspired from my Sewing With Knits Craftsy.com class. I've made another ribbed jersey maxi-skirt with a fold-over waistband for my sister and these:

I found some great jeggings fabric (you know, jean leggings) on the clearance rack at Joann's, but what I made was WAY better than jeggings! I started with the fold-over yoga pant pattern included in the Sewing With Knits class. It make a wide-leg pajama style pant. I added back pockets that I copied off a pair of jeans I already love. I tried to make these little faux front pockets, too, but after I stitched them up they barely show at all. I will make them bigger next time.  And I also took took in the leg openings to match my jeans as well. The end result are not too skinny but slim, fold-over waist band yoga jeans! On me, the really look just like jeans from the back, but still like yoga pants in the front. I have yet to decided if they are going to be lounge-at-home pants, or look nice enough to be wear-out-of-the-house pants. Either way, I really like them am and very pleased with myself! And, I have enough fabric left to make a fold-over skirt!

sew many skirts!

I have been sewing up a storm lately and need to keep you up to date! I've been making a lot of skirts because they don't take too long to make and I actually really enjoy wearing skirts! I wish I had a job where I could wear them more often, but I am doing Made-by-Me Tuesdays since I don't lead exercise class on Tuesdays. Today I wore:

Yuck, horrible picture! But you get the idea. Think the fabric looks familiar?  It's the same fabric I used to make a full skirt here. I loved this silky, matte, lace-print! After finishing the full skirt, I found I was still really pining after a slim one, but I only had a little over a 1/2 yard! I tried to get some more, but my habit of buying from the clearance rack meant that was not longer an option. So I had to think a little outside the box. I used New Look 6053, because view B only took 7/8 yard.

Mind you I didn't HAVE 7/8 yard. Thankfully, I'm short so I knew I could take a few inches off at the hem. I did the same at the waist and added a waistband using the lining pattern piece of the original design. I just cut two instead of one and sewed it up similar to the waistband in Gertie's Full Gathered Skirt Tutorial.  I did the waistband in black, because I didn't even have enough scrap to do the waistband in the the lace print! Came out great. Looks way better on me than on the dress form, especially when paired with black boots, a black v-neck t-shirt and charcoal-grey boyfriend cardigan. 

I also made this super cute teal denim skirt with pockets:

Obviously this was taken before my new "model" arrived, so please forgive the bad mirror picture and t-shirt. I used Simplicity 2258, and would totally use that pattern again!

After a MUCH overdue sewing machine tune-up (my mother sewed on this for YEARS and never had it cleaned or tuned) with the tension tip-top I decided to try some knit fabric. I bought this pretty red ribbed knit for $1/yard in the clearance bin at a large box store that I am ashamed to have bought fabric in when we were also buying windshield wipers and pet prescriptions. ANYWAY, I wanted to make a simple maxi-skirt. I cut a piece a little longer than the skirt I wanted (to have some room for error, which I needed) a sewed a tube. Then a took the remainder and cut a piece that made a nice, snug waistband when stretched and sewed it into a tube; folded it over to make a double-thick waistband; gathered the skirt, sewed all three edges together to attach the waistband to the skirt, easy right? Every seam I made I had to take out and re-do! I would cut the waistband too big. Then I would catch the skirt into the seam. Then I sniped the knit fabric trying to take out the stitching and had to darn the hole. Finally when I thought I had it, I had sewed the waistband so the seam was on the outside of the skirt...

so I had a hissy-fit and threw the skirt on the ground and stormed off.

Then I came back and realized that I could just fold over the waistband to cover the exposed seam. Problem solved. Oh well. Sometimes you just need to have a good hissy. And after all that I feel like I'll wear this skirt a ton this summer.