a three-hour dress

I had originally bought this mid-weight sweater knit fabric for... well exactly that; a sweater! But as I've been discovering more and more about my own personal style through sewing, I realized that a blue and while heart print cardigan just didn't fit into my wardrobe. When I found this image on pinterest.com, I knew exactly what that fabric needed to be:

image from queenofoz.blogspot.com

I started with this Simplicity Sew Simple pattern I picked up for $.97, and I say started with because the end result was much different!

I made a wearable-muslin-of-sorts of this pattern straight from the envelope for my Halloween bee costume, since a costume doesn't have to bee a perfect fit. (Get it? I'm so funny!) It's a simple pullover dress, front piece cut on the fold with bust darts, back piece has two pieces with a slight flare on the back center seam. Trying that on I was able to figure out what kind of alterations I wanted to do to my paper pattern for the blue and white heart dress:

I folded up an inch between the bust and arm opening (and the same to the back pattern piece), taking care of my petite bodice and high bust-point in one swoop! Then I threw (swung? whatever the term is...) the bust dart so that in angled towards my waist for a little more waist definition. 

The original pattern came with little short sleeves, so I lengthened them to hit just as my elbow and added and little cuff/slit/I don't quite know what you call it. 

You can't quite see it, but there are two perfect back darts!

I took in a little more than an inch from the center back, which also straightened the center seam so I could cut the back on the fold and eliminate the back center seam. After stitching up the side seams I decided to add some back darts, too, for just a little more shape. I just stole those right off another dress pattern in my stash! And to finish it all off, I made facings for the neckline instead of a narrow hem or band.

It felt so good to put into practice these flat pattern altering techniques I'd picked up in places like the Sew the Perfect Fit with Lynda Maynard class I took on Craftsy.com, and the A Perfect Fit book!  I'm pretty pleased with myself! I feel a little like Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic, who can slash and alter her TNT dress pattern into pretty much anything she can think of!

I used my sewing machine with a slight zig-zag stitch for darts, sleeve construction and setting, sewing in the neckline facings, and top-stitching on the neckline and hem, then used my serger for the side seams, finishing the armhole seams and neckline facing, and finishing the raw edge on the bottom hem so that I only had to fold up and stitch once, reducing bulk. The coolest part? From the time I started pattern alterations to finished garment took only about three hours! I got to wear it out that evening with leggings and boots... super cute. There may be more of these dresses in my future!

me-made-may '13 - may 14th -18th

Here is my MMM '13 update! I'm doing really well, and finding it easier than I expected to reach for my me-made items when putting an outfit together. It's totally reaffirming my decision to dedicate so much of my free time to making my own garments.

Everyone at work loved my new Butterick 5885 on May 14th! Still too early to go sleeveless, and I was having a hard time figuring out what color cardigan would go with this graphic print. I decided on fuchsia... because fuchsia really goes with everything this season!

I wore my new maxi skirt on May 15th AND 16th. This is SO going to be a summer staple! I've already planned another maxi skirt fro my next project. Given how many times I've work this since just a week ago when I made it, you will be relieved to know that it launders beautifully. :)

On May 17th I wore the purple lace fold-over waistband skirt out shopping with my sister and mom. I dressed it casual with gold flip flops, a white t-shirt and a slouchy, grey sweater. So cute! 

Until later! 

butterick 5885 finished!

I finally finished the Butterick 5885 by Maggy London that I started over a month ago! I actually had the construction finished a long time ago but have been putting off the hem. Why? I don't like hemming, for one thing. It's tedious and fussy and plain old not as much fun as the making-something-out-of-just-fabric part (a.k.a. construction). If you don't get the hem just right the whole garment, and all the work up until then, will look awful. Most of the UFOs in my sewing room are because I just don't feel like hemming them. This dress with a full circle skirt has A LOT of hem, and a fussy curved hem at that!

Second, it's so hard to mark a hem by yourself! Most of the time I can wing it when I have a straight hem, or one that hangs evenly right from the pattern. But this big circle skirt in a stretchy knit made for an all wonky hem. I tried the hem attachments on my dress form, but once I was marked all the way around, my marks were 2 inches shorter then when they started... that's not going to work. I tried to teach Mr. Sew Rachel how to do it, but a quarter of the way through he throws up his hands and says "I can't do this! I'm going to ruin your pretty dress!" Umm, I was going check it in the mirror before I cut anything.... oh well. So I took it to my Gramma's.  Of course she had no problem helping me out, and I now I know to go to her first.

Once the dress was marked, it actually finished up quite nicely! This fabric has been great to work with; even easing the curve of the hem was no trouble at all! And for the 56 inches of elastic that pattern was telling me to put in the waist.... I just left it out and it looks just fine. In fact, the fit is fabulous. I would for sure make this pattern again!

A v-neck with crisscrossed and ruched detail. As usual  I had to take in in the shoulders a couple inches, as well as take in the sides. I always cut a 14 (which is what a measure at) and always take it in! I need to just cut a 12 for all patterns from now on...

The back is constructed from two one-shoulder pieces that cross and then both attach at the waist for a nice v-detail. I love how the graphic print will camouflage any little bumps in both in the dress construction and in the wearer! 

me-made-may '13 - may 1st-7th

How are you doing on your Me-Made-May pledge? I pledged to wear a handmade garment twice a week, and so far so good. On May 1st I wore a made-by-me spring ruffle skirt (yet to be blogged on... but I will!) with a white t-shirt and fuchsia cardigan to work, and on the 3rd I wore my purple lace fold-over waistband skirt..

 

And I'm already on track for this week, as I mad a garment this morning AND wore it in the afternoon/evening! But more on that later...

what's rachel sewing today?

I've decided that winter is officially over her in Maine. For those who know, just because the calendar says "spring" doesn't mean mother nature is going to listen. We may still have snow on the ground here and there, but I'm convinced that no more is coming out of the sky. That means spring sewing!

I had brought home a couple of really cool black and white prints from the clearance rack, and then read that it's a big trend for spring. Huzzah! I'm ahead of the trend! 

So today I picked up Butterick 5885 by Maggy London and knew it would be perfect for this knit print! (ps. Buttericks are on sale at there website if you want a copy.) I did switch out the skirt for a simple circle skirt from another pattern. I've got the front together with little issues. The only weird part is it seems to be telling me to feed elastic into the waist, that measures TWO TIMES my waist measurement  That does not make since to me, and I couldn't find any answers on the webs. I may just leave the elastic out for now until the dress is finished and insert it later if I need to, or maybe half if. If anyone has done this pattern advice is welcome! Until later!