scout dress success!

Hello sewing world! I've actually made a couple of items in the past month, but have been bad about photographing and blogging them. BUT here is my latest make which I'm very pleased with: a Grainline Scout DRESS!

I really liked the fit of my first Scout Tee, and it is so easy to make with only 4 pattern pieces and no darts. I just lengthened the hemline, continuing the slight A-line of the side seams. I made this in a polyester crepe-like-fabric, which is medium weight and just the tiniest bit spongy. I actually used the wrong side as my right side. The "right side" had a little too much sheen, and the wrong side was a lovely matte black. I think the matte side looks like a much more expensive fabric, and way more wearable day to day.  It was great to sew with, although it didn't hold a press well at all. My first hem was about an inch, which without being able to press a nice edge just puffed out and looked awful. I unpicked it and did a narrow hem that came out beautifully, as it did on the sleeves. It's funny how you learn that each fabric has it's own preferences in how it wants to be handled and finished.

I had a hard time getting the neck facing to fit all the way around, so you can seem some puckering (but no gathers!) in the back. It turns out, I had cut the facing two sizes smaller! Oops! Well, it doesn't bother me enough to unpick it at this point, because overall this was a very successful dress!

fall sewing ideas

I'm not going to be so confident to call this a fall sewing plan... because let's be real, I don't really know what my fall schedule will allow for sewing time now that I'm back to work and school. So here's a reasonable "wish-list" of things I'd like to make for me! You'll notice a lot of basics in basic colors, kinda boring for you I suspect, but I've noticed some wardrobe gaps and wanted to make things I know will get a lot of wear using some of my newly-determined tried-and-true patterns.

1.) Scout Tee

I bought some black, white and ivory rayon fabrics to make few of these, as well as a poly with a slight luster to attempt a dressier version. The fabric has the same look as the cotton/silk blend I used for my black maxi-dress, but was 1/4 of the cost. If it comes out well I'll splurge on some more of that lovely fabric for winter!

2. simple tops

I purchased some lightweight, crinkly bright coral poly (I know...) and a soft, semi-shear, grey-scale print to make into and easy  Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank. I wear my cotton version all the time, so it;s time to make some more!

I may also use some leftover fabric from the Scout Tee for a Lemon Drop Top by SBCC Patterns. They make patterns specifically designed for petites... I need shop from them more often!

3. Jeans! Burda 7214

I've been itching to make jeans ever since the Ginger Jeans popped up all over the blog-o-sphere. They all look so good! But they still seemed a little scary... with all the fancy jeans details (even though all the blogs assure me she makes it super simple!). Then a few days ago One Small Stitch posted her Burda 7214 success, and I decided these were the next pants I want to try! She talks about how easy it was to fit this pattern, which is something I can have challenges with. The pattern is discontinued and it took me a few days to track down a copy online. I would make a plain and simple version without any extra fancy details in denim first, and if that goes well maybe black. 

4. Tan Greenstyle Taylor Shorts or Simplicity 2258

If you've looked back in my blog you'll see I've made both of these patterns recently (plus one more skirt yet to blog!) and like them a lot. I have 1.5 yards of dark khaki bottom-weight cotton with ab it of stretch, and think it should be come on of these two patterns. If I decided on shorts I better make them soon before it gets too cold! If I make the skirt, it would be view C but with the ties from A, and maybe add a center front and back seam to get a more RTW look. What do you think I should make?

5. Tilly and the Buttons Fifi Set!

Because I deserve some pretty pjs! And this grey challis is sooo soft!

6.) Pencil Skirts

A grey wool and a black, quilted leather(ish) pencil skirt using my custom-drafted skirt pattern. I know... quilted leather? But they had a fabric at Joann's that look very cool.

7. Black A-line or sheath dress.

I'm thinking about either extending the length of the Scout Tee (that I love so much!), or trying the Laurel by Colette Patterns (which I hear nothing but praise for!). I have yet to find the right fabric, so that my determine my pattern choice and timeline for making it.

8. A Sport Coat for Mr. SewRachel

He's been asking for one for a while (does he understand how hard a men's jacket it?!?!), and now he has a job where he will need to wear one once in a while... but lets look at the list above and be real... probably not going to happen. Haven't even picked out a pattern....

This winter....

When I was visiting Italy this summer I splurged on some fun, designer Italian silk! I was only going to buy a meter to make a top, because it was a little pricey, but he ended up selling me what was left on the bolt for a meter and a half... so now I have 2.5 yards! i can make a dress! I think this print would be great as a Papercut Patterns Midsummer Night's Dream Dress. This dress is not something I'll need for my fall/winter wardrobe, so it's not too high on the priority list. Maybe I'll make it when I'm on winter break, as I'll was time to make a mock-up first before I cut into my lovely silk!

the good, bad and ugly scout tee

Cheap, synthetic, silky fabrics are yucky. They are yucky to work with and often yucky to wear... so why are they so irresistible in the fabric store?!?! I bought this blue "simply silky print" at Joann Fabrics, because "look how pretty it is!". I knew it should be another Grainline Scout Tee.

GOOD:
It came out looking pretty good overall! Fits nicely, sleeves set well. And actually, this particular silky synthetic feels nice to wear.

BAD:

I made a mistake. After spending quite a bit of time laying out the wiggly, wobbly fabric so my lines would lie straight across the body and the little waves/fishy scales lay in the correct directions... I cut the back piece upside down. I really wanted the print to lay like fish scales all around the top (I know, who actually WANTS to look like a fish? Me, it turns out.). It doesn't look that bad, but does kinda spoil the effect I was super excited for.

UGLY:

Remember how silky synthetics are not fun to sew with? Well, this fabric certainly had it's challenges. As I mentioned, it wiggled and wobbled, taking a lot of time and concentration to cut out the pieces accurately. It also wiggled and wobbled as it went under the machine, so the sides seams have a little puckering. They all really falls more under "bad"... the ugly is the neck binding:

Yuck! It slipped under my machine, it puckered the neckline, and just wouldn't lay flat! Thankfully, I was able to hand stitch down the areas that slipped out from the machine's needle without it showing too badly, and could iron most of the puckering out, getting it to lay flat(ter). Also, the sheen on the fabric is actually working with me by hiding some of these less-than-perfect bits when I wear it. 

BUT GOOD AGAIN:

My narrow hems on both the bottom of the shirt and sleeves came out really, really well! It was nice to end this sewing with a real high note, otherwise this top may have ended up in the trash. I could say the fabric behaved well for the narrow hem.... but I'm going to go ahead and think that is was just the seamstress demonstrating some especially nice sewing skills. :) 

mmm'14 update and new tops

MMM'14 Selfie!

Thanks for all your kind comments on my last post! I'm glad me-made-pjs count when you are feeling cruddy. I'm feeling a lot better finally (and my house bunnies are starting to feel better, too!), and have actually put on real clothes the past few days.

May 2nd - One of my favorite makes from last year, McCalls 6751!
May 3rd - A brand new Grainline Hemlock Tee... which doesn't really go with the hat, but it was sunny out on the deck :)
May 4th - Here I'm wearing a favorite infinity scarf out to dinner with some friends. I was wearing my grey, knit maxi-skirt earlier... but sick bunnies meant I had to change before going out, and before I'd taken my MMM'14 photo.
May 5th - A new  Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank with gold sandals, skinny jeans and a cardigan.

I made the Grainline Hemlock Tee with a sheer, striped,  sweater-knit from Fabric.com. I love the look, but it already started to snag after only one day of regular wear. Also, I constructed this on my serger, and the seams didn't come out great. I know a lot of folks like to sew knits on a serger, but I just don't have the hang of it yet. I do better constructing on my regular sewing machine with a zig-zag, and neatening up the seams afterwards on the serger. It's a wearable shirt that will be good on days I'm in the art studio, nothing I'll be upset over should I get it covered in ink. Still, I do really like the pattern and may make another version!

I made my  Eucalypt Tank from the same fish-print cotton that I used to line my me-made purse. I love this print! For this version I cut the fabric on the bias to allow a little more stretch and shape. Even with that, I think I will add some bust darts next time I use this pattern. I used french seams, a narrow curved hem, and homemade bias binding along the neck and armholes. I'm really, really pleased with the construction on this top.

I've also finished my black, silk, copy-cat maxidress! But that will deserve it's own post, so stayed tuned. :) 

In the first week of MMM'14 I've realized I need some khaki pants to go with a number of my me-made tops, so that's what I'm sewing currently. I found some nice twill (I think?) with a fair bit of stretch that had come from my mother's stash and have started a pair of Simplicity 1696 Amazing Fit Pants. It probably would have been way smarter to use the StyleARC Elle Pants pattern that I had success with before... but I guess I just want to make things difficult for me! Really, I wanted a more traditional pant look with front pockets and a lower rise waistband, and I found this amazing red version while searching pattern reviews that are seriously cool! I at least laid my StyleARC pattern pieces on top of the Simplicity pieces to (hopefully) confirm a similar fit... but more on that project later!

new finished garments! and a marie jacket update

Good news! I have two finished garments to share today! First up... New Look 6251 in black polar fleece. This was made on my Singer and was almost finished when the foot lifter broke. I was able to finish with a little extra effort getting the fabric under the foot.

 

Exposed pocket zippers.

Not too bad on the zipper installation!

Doesn't look too bad... but again, the fit is not amazing. I should have shortened the pattern before I began, because there was not a lot of room alter at the hemline once the zippers were in. I did take in where the sleeve meets the shoulders by a good inch, and the side seams another 1/2 inch.

 

See what I mean? By no means terrible... but still not quite right. The proportions feel a little too top heavy. But it's a fairly quick and easy pattern, so I think I may be able do some easy alterations (shorten, take in the shoulders/upper back,  add an elastic or pull cord at the waist...) and whip up a take-2 pretty easily. That's what I should do... or I might try Kwik Sew 3813 :) Any thoughts?

Oh, and you notice the grey corduroy mini? It's a Grainline Moss Skirt! And this was my first make on my new Bernina. I sewed a size 8, and the only alteration was lengthening it a bit at the hem. It sits pretty low on the hips (which I don't have much of to being with!), so next time I'll take in the waistband just a smidge to feel a little more secure. Otherwise, a great pattern!

You can really see the extra fabric in the back and shoulders of the jacket in this picture. And there is a fold under the waistband on the hips.... maybe bring in the waistband?

I needed a little dose of spring, so I lined the pockets with a pretty spring floral cotton! And check out that beautiful understitching when putting the pockets together!

Notice the tuck under the waistband... is that because the waistband is a little to big and not staying up?

It was also only my second fly zipper installation, and if you think that it would be difficult to do... you'd be right. But after three tries I got it! I used a combination of the pattern instructions included, the Grainline Fly Insertion Tutorial, and I made-up my own methods at times when I was still scratching my head after reading both sets of instructions.

I also added a little extra topstiching here and there, like the back yoke, the waistband, and pockets.

And I almost forgot! You wanted to know what I did with the StyleARC Marie Jacket! Well, I got this pictures on my phone the other day:

 

My sister told me she loves it and it fits her even better than the Modcloth.com jacket I was inspired by.  Funny how that extra 7 inches tall can make such a big difference...

Oh well, I'm getting closer to a perfect fitting mid-weight jacket!